Las Tres Fronteras
We landed from our 2 hour flight from Bogota to Leticia on Wednesday, June 7th. Our hostel (Anaira) had complimentary airport pickups and sure enough, waiting for us outside of the gate was a sign with my name on it (I had made the reservations). We quickly got acquainted in our rooms which were constructed on- they were making a door for the room. We listened to the different guide options for the jungle. We had 2 choices - stay in Leticia and go on day trips or spend 3 nights and 4 days in the jungle using military hammocks. As can be assumed, we chose the latter option. The rest of the day was spent relaxing and preparing for tomorrow. There were 2 other travelers who joined Hugh, Juspal and I. The three of us had been teaching in Tunja the previous month. Alice, a Canadian from the french part joined us, as well as Niklas from Germany. They were both traveling by themselves and while Alice was just ending her trip, Niklas was only beginning his. I opted out to not take any malaria pills seeing that it was too late and that we were unable to purchase them at a drugstore. So instead, we doused ourselves in repellent every day. This proved quite ineffective for some people (mostly me). 
First Day
We took a speed boat out to the little floating islands on the Peruvian side and crossed over to a town in Brazil called Benjamin. 2 other travelers joined us; both from Portugal and both just recently finishing a study abroad semester in Bogota. The heat felt unbearable and we were all clearly unaware of what we were doing with our ridiculous long sleave shirts, pants, and trekking boats that were provided for us. After buying shakasa and having a beer, we arrived at a cabana (cabin) where we had a delicious buffet style dinner. The food every day for the next four days always consisted of fish, usually pirracuah. It was made in different styles and ways. Shortly after, we went swimming in the middle of the Amazon with clear beautiful water. The color of the water changes depending on where you are at and what types of trees are near it. There is a combination of the dark brown water, muddy lighter brown water and blue water. Then we split off with Pancho (another guide) leading one group in a canoe and the rest in the boat with Eduardo to go pirannah fishing. With a lot of patience and mosquito bites after, we caught a measly 4 fish ( and when I say "we" I actually just mean Niklas). Our first night was also the worst night for sleeping. We set up the hammocks in the forest in the dark. Dinner was prepared in the fire which included a smoldering taste in the fish, plantains, and potatoes. It was a delicious meal given the circumstances. The night ended with (strong) capirine mix drunken out of cut plastic bottles. I could barely sleep as it began to rain and although we were "protected" you could steal feel the dampness of the hammock resting on you. I was also terribly bitten in the stomach area and all along my back. The darn things bit me from the back as I was laying in the hammock. 
Second Day
Most of us woke up around 7:30 am with the exceptions of the 2 Portugal guys who seemed accostumed to the hammocks given that this was their last night in them. The ground was moist from last night's rain, but within minutes, the guides were able to prepare a fire for breakfast. It was a simple breakfast that consisted of hard boiled eggs, coffee, bread and jam, and even cheese- but it was hearty and filling. Pancho even carved a little spoon for us to spread the jam and stir the coffee. Although he kept mostly to himself, I quickly discovered his immense knowledge on survival and instincts. We made a stop at reserve where an expert on monkeys and snakes greeted us. He gave us a quick tour of the reserve, ending with demonstrations by yours truly...Princess, the anaconda. She was huge and as he spoke about her, I had to stand quite a distance to maintain my sanity. The different monkeys ranged in size- from one that could fit in your pocket to one that was as tall as a child. This is also where I got to hold a baby sloth...my day couldn't get any better! Our other guide left to drop the boys back in Leticia and our group was left alone with Pancho. We all gathered our stuff on his tiny canoe and distributing the weight, left for another cabana. The rain started to pick up the moment we left so we had to use a tarp over us, creating a window at the front where I was sitting. Even in the rain with a grey sky, the jungle was beautiful. I was astonished at how well Pancho knew his way- every direction that you turn, the forest looks the same. There were no "street signs" or geographical distinction. But he steered the canoe with ease. After arriving to our new place, we rested for the evening, ate more fish, then went for a walk through a different part of the jungle. It was dark and the jungle was filled with peculiar sounds. After every few steps, Pancho would stop, look distinctively around, then point his light towards something in the distant. It ranged from spiders and frogs, to a scorpion or later on a kaiman. He spotted bugs that blended into the tree bark- things that no one else could even see until we were up close and a light was flashing on it.
And somehow, miraculously, we made our way back to the cabana. Then we waited until it was a bit darker and proceeded to catch for kaimans. Kaimans are little alligators that rest near the tall grass. The trick was to shine a light on them and then their eyes would reflect the light. The five us as sat in the canoe, waiting and watching patiently. Pancho would flash his head light, look around, row the boat (all at the same time) and once he saw one it was a sight to see: He would get on the very corner of the boat and with his legs straddled to each side, reach out and rapidly snatch one from the water. Pancho wasn't the smallest guy like most Colombians, but he knew how to perfectly adjust his weight and with ease, capture the kaimans. In fact, a lot of Pancho’s movements were done in a light and meticulous manner. Every step that he took through the jungle was with intent and
Third Day
Our last night was spent in the molokos of a shaman who belonged to a minority indigenous group of the Amazons. It was a mixture of excitement but also in the back burner, I was thinking about the perpetuation of the tourism industry in a foreigner's fascination with lives that are different from ours. And how experiences such as this one, may not be ethically appropriate or sound. I didn’t really know how to respond to it considering that we were already there. Our group was dropped off at what seemed like a random road area, but waiting there was our guide/shaman. He spoke to us in a meditative tone as if tasting every word, often responding with only a resounding “Mhmmm…” as one full sentence. He went by the name of Almenerae and around his neck was a small trinket that was filled with tobacco powder which he would occasionally ingest followed by a mouthful of coca powder. During those moments, he would be silent and so would we. After following him through star-lit path of the woods, we finally arrived at the molokos. There were only 3 other people living there, but we set up our hammocks inside of the molokos. That evening we were introduced to a ritual of the Huitoto indigenous group. I sat in awe as the two older gentlemen spoke in their native language while exchanging a cigar and every once in a while, a mouthful of coca leaves. Almenerae blew tobacco into each our nostrils as we were instructed to inhale simultaneously then to exhale in the opposite direction of the nostril. The could feel a strong burning sensation as the tobacco powder went up my nostrils- completely clearing my sinus. Almenerae was able to sing a selection of songs from other indigenous groups because, as he reasoned, “the leader must know other group’s songs”. The changes in tone, dialects, and sounds was intriguing. Full of energy, we put on traditional skirts made out of grass and learned one of their dances joined with one of the songs that we had just heard. We laughed at the silliness of the site- seeing each other (both men and women) dressed in skirts- dancing and singing. Just before bed, Almenerae did a ritual of “closing holes” in our bodies. This was done by using a cigar and blowing at different parts of our body such as the shoulder, legs, and near our belly button- while exhaling the excess in the form of a “forced burp”. He did this for each of us before we settled into our hammocks to ensure that our body was closed. 
Day Four- the Last Day
I was woken up by the swing of my hammock from someone in our group. Everyone else was already prepared for the morning trek that we were about to venture on at 5 am. Dark and still sleepy, I kept the same outfit that I had been wearing for the past couple of days- I only brought one pair of jeans and for fear of being stung by mosquitos, I slept with as many layers as I could. We had all decided that an early morning walk would be most beneficial so that we could try to identify the different sounds of birds in this part of the jungle. Almenerae had told us that we would be swimming which I had imagined as a hidden spot with clear and beautiful water. However, it was actually murky, brown water. I was hesitant to enter the water, but once in, I was the last to get out. The area was actually quite lovely and swimming in the jungle at 6 am gave me a relieving and fresh feeling. Along the way back through a different route, we spotted monkeys jumping over us on the tall trees that shaded the jungle. What a site it was! They moved swiftly and lightly, but made the cutest sound, like that of a sloth. After a quick breakfast, gathering the rest of our belongings and giving thanks to the woman who cooked for us, we made our back. It was a long journey- just as the sun was heating up- but as soon as we left the jungle, the first thing that we had while waiting for taxis to arrive was a cold Colombian beer. Although I was sad to be returning to Leticia, I was also eager to take a proper shower and to rest in a bed.
I arrived to my hostel in the evening and inside waited one of my best friends- Taylor Smith. Finally, after a failed meetup on Monday, we were reunited in Leticia, Colombia. I hadn’t seen her in almost 5 months and we had so much to catch up on and so many stories to share. We went to a fine dining seafood restaurant a couple of blocks away where we tried Mojojoy worms for the first time. They are a highly recommended exotic food to try here, but tasted awful. Supposedly the locals love it and eat them for the medicinal properties. I thought that they would be more seasoned but you could taste everything including the insides….
Comments
Post a Comment