Meeting travelers from the Pacific Northwest in Bogota, Colombia
On Friday morning, I took a 3-hour bus ride to Bogota. Upon my arrival at the bus terminal, I asked the police for directions to my hostel which stated that I needed to take the Germania bus towards the centro. They took me inside to ask another officer who was speaking with a different woman.Coincidentally the woman was also heading in the same direction and she walked me to the right bus station. We chatted a bit and she warned me to not have my phone out in public (this would be the first of numerous warnings regarding possessions). After waiting for about 15 minutes, I caught the right bus and while on it, I asked the driver to please let me know when Carrera 4 was near. This proceeded him to ask me where I was from. Not long, the entire bus knew that I was foreign and that I needed help (the bus driver even asked a policewoman to escort me to my hostel). A stranger on the bus responded to the bus driver's request, claiming that he also needed to go to that area. He walked me all the way to the front door of my hostel, explaining along the way the dangerousness of the area that I would be staying in called La Candelaria. Once settled in, I set out to explore the area. A map in hand, a little bit of money stored in my bra, and my phone near my body. I wandered throughout the area. La Candelaria is an old city with a young and energetic vibe. The art here is absolutely beautiful. The buildings are covered in vibrant colors and intricate designs of various symbols. A push for art was noticed by Congress and he proposed that if you had an idea that you wanted to draw on one of the walls, you had to write your ideas and send them in to be approved. If they were approved, you would receive funding for the art. Thus a huge artistic "graffiti" movement in the heart of Bogota erupted.
Since it was starting to get dark, I headed back in the direction of my hostel. Not long after, I witnessed the end of a scene in which swarms of police with their dogs were attacking two men on bikes that I had heard was attempting to steal money... While standing there in shock, a gentleman outside of the bar and I began to talk. His name was Fernando and we had an interesting conversation about women's rights and the "reality" of living in Colombia. He kindly walked me back to my hostel. That evening I met up with a girl originally from Italy who was doing an exchange program in Brazil and some ladies that she had met on the Walking Tour for dinner. We went to a family-owned restaurant and discussed the joys and struggles of traveling alone as a woman. There was a girl from England, another from Japan, one was from Germany and the Brazillian girl and me. The girl from Japan confessed how difficult it was for her to be traveling alone due to the stereotype that most Asians were of a wealthy background. She told stories of being ripped off and with little understanding of the language, it was even more of a challenge. That evening we went out to Zona Rosa, better known as the districts full of clubs and bars. After a few shots of aguadiente, we danced the night away in La Villa.
The next morning, I woke up later than intended and met up with a girl (Michelle) that I had met on a Travel page for women. She happened to be in Bogota the same weekend as me and coincidentally, she was from Portland! Check out her website that inspires women to travel: GirlGoTravel.com
We met up at Quinta de Bolivar to begin the famous hike up La Monserrate, only to discover that the climbing section was closed off for maintenance. Instead, we went up the funicular which was equally just as fun without all of the exhaustion. Over 3,000 meters above sea level, the view was absolutely spectacular. One side was surrounded by trees and the other side was a view of the city. Since we were ahead of time, we decided to go to the Museo de Oro. An extensive explanation of the history and importance of gold for Colombians was depicted through artifacts and stories. The second floor contained interesting information regarding the shamanism associated with the different gold depictions such as how the indigenous believed that there were three worlds and that humans existed in the middle. They would meditate to transport to other places. They also believed that women were the sacred Earth often referred to as the Pachamama.
We met up with a group of tourists for the raved Walking Tour. This 2-hour informative tour started in the Plazoleta Chorro de Quevedo where the first several houses existed in Bogota. Throughout the tour, we learned about the various tropical fruits of Colombia and how the geography and climate affected the different flavors and taste of food. Then we walked to the unforgettable building in which Jorge Eliecer Gaitan was assassinated on April 9, 1948. He was a politician and was presumed to be elected as the next President had he not been shot. There is still so many controversies about his death. Shortly after, however, a violent protest erupted with civilians destroying buildings and looting which helped to explain the newly constructed portion of a church near the area. Our next stop was a Chicha restaurant. Here we learned about the indigenous drink that can only be found along one street of Bogota. Made with fermented corn it tasted like apple sauce with a vinegar after taste. Depending on how long you ferment the corn for, it can taste more or less alcoholic. This indigenous drink, although rooted in the lives of Colombia is not common in every household nor is it found everywhere. In fact, it was only in a few stores on a particular street of La Candelaria that you could purchase it. It would typically be handed to you in a glass bottle with a brown bag over it and a straw inside. Then came my favorite part of the tour- coffee. Here we learned, extensively, about the process of coffee making as well as the fine details that go into the perfect cup of coffee. The cafe emphasized that requesting milk and sugar signifies that the coffee is not good. Using the various taste buds, a person drinking the coffee could taste the sweetness, bitterness, and the acidity of a cup of coffee. The barista prepared a precise amount of coffee beans, after grinding it (to ensure the freshness), then set it in water for exactly 4 minutes, making a more potent taste. The truth behind the coffee industry is that the majority of it is owned by one corporate which exports 90% of the coffee to other countries. Thus, most Colombians are unable to drink the delicious coffee that they grow and harvest and instead use instant coffee. Fortunately, this is slowly changing and more coffee shops are offering the delicious coffee.
On Sunday, I went to the Museo de Botero with Michelle. On Sunday's, all museums are free. The Museo de Botero was an odd collection of fat art by the famous Fernando Botero. Fat sculptures and portraits filled the two-story museum along with a few pieces from international artists. His style, referred to as Boterismo, depicts everything you can imagine in a rather large context. Botero is one of the most recognized artists in Latin America. Michelle and I wandered around for a while looking for a restaurant- most stores and restaurants are closed on Sunday as well. Finally, we settled on a cute place called Nativos that also sold medicinal herbs and souvenirs. I had a delicious plate of sushi for the first time since I have been to Colombia. The rest of the day was spent walking around in the main district area where hundreds of people and families are eating ice cream, enjoying the sun and watching the diverse street entertainment from tango dancers to people dressed up as a tin man and a robot. Returning back to Tunja was quite troublesome. I had to use the transmilenio- the public subway in Bogota. But once there I made acquaintances with another French girl who was on her to Cucuy. She helped me to find the bus terminal.
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